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The shirt is a point of departure, its structure and details borrowed as a base to transform an entire stable of menswear—suits, raincoats, active sportswear, and reporter jackets. Beginning with simplicity, the collection puts forward a notion of expansion, amplification of an idea—a paradox between silhouette and materiality, Prada said in a press release.
Prada’s Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collection by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, showcased in Milan, explores absolute body freedom through garment design.
The collection borrows shirt structures and details, transforming typical menswear staples.
Decoration is three-dimensional and playful, reinventing floral prints and repurposing utilitarian pockets.
Centrally, qualities of lightness and softness are brought to garments throughout, creating a fluctuating rapport between the body and its clothes. These ideas infiltrate every aspect of dress—headbands and eyewear, moulded of singular pieces, appear like captured fragments of motion; leather bags are unexpectedly softened to the touch.
Silhouettes borrow their lines from masculine suiting, but their structure contradicts with an intrinsic flexibility. Shirting construction transposes to tailored garments, re-constituting their archetypal silhouettes with a new fragility. Tailoring elements may be proposed on cotton poplin, in true hybrid garments that exist in a new space between understood sartorial disciplines.
Evolving the idea of expansion to elaboration, decoration is three-dimensional, reinventing the idea of a floral print through applications of corsages and fringe, animating the static. Extending this idea, utilitarian pockets are alienated from their function, to act rather as further decorative devices, added the release.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (NB)
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